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Monday, August 9, 2010

Good Food For Cheap: Gourmet Dumpling House

Last Saturday night, a group of us friends decided to get together to have dinner in Chinatown. Where did we go? Gourmet Dumpling House, of course! Located in the heart of Chinatown, GDH is the mecca of traditional Taiwanese/Chinese cuisine at affordable prices.

Just from it's name, you already know what GDH is famous for. It's superstar? The Mini Steamed Buns with Pork (8 for $6.95). Called "Xiao Long Bao" (小笼包) in Chinese, it literally means "Little Basket Buns" because it is traditionally steamed in bamboo baskets. It is made with unraised flour which gives it a dumpling-like skin--smooth and somewhat translucent--instead of the white, fluffy skins, made from raised flour, most Chinese people associate with the term "baozi" (包子). What sets it apart from normal dumplings is the explosion of hot soup in your mouth as you take your first bite--hence its other name, the "soup dumpling." I had always wondered how the soup got into the bun and thanks to Wikipedia, now I know. Turns out, a solid meat gelatin is wrapped along with the traditional pork filling inside the skin. The heat from the steaming melts the gelatin into a hot broth. Yum!

GDH's buns aren't the best I've EVER had--that designation goes to the street vendor my mother goes to whenever we go back to China--but it definitely takes top spot for this side of the Pacific. About two and a half inches in diameter, the buns can fill you up pretty quickly. You must be careful when picking up the bun from the steam pan--with one little rip, the soup quickly drains out, and you're left with a plain, over-sized dumpling. The first bite is the best. Your teeth breaks the skin and the savory warmth of the broth rushes into your mouth. It can be hot, so take care not to burn your tongue, but, in my opinion, it's the best part. GDH doesn't scrimp on the meat filling either--there's a good hunk of meat in the bun. I would like a bit more complexity in the taste, perhaps some more spices or a variance in texture by adding some kind of vegetable, but overall, it hits all the right spots.

Don't let the name "Gourmet Dumpling House" fool you, though. Just because it has the word "dumpling" in it, it doesn't mean it's all they offer. They have quite a selection of other traditional Chinese dishes, as well as your typical Chinese-American take out fares. However, I'd stay away from the latter as the authentic dishes are so much better. And if you're going to go through the trouble of eating out at GDH, why bother with the stuff you can get at Panda Palace? We ended up ordering some Scallion Pancakes ($3.95) to start, the Sauteed Chinese Watercress with Garlic ($9.95), the Homestyle Braised Eggplant with Basil ($8.95), Pork and Leek Dumplings ($6.95), and an order of the Xiao Long Bao.

The scallion pancakes were thick but crunchy, definitely a good way to start off the meal. The watercress, buns, and dumplings stood their ground as always but were overshadowed by the eggplant dish, by far my favorite of the night. Now, I love eggplant and I love fresh basil, but I wasn't expecting much with this dish. I had assumed it was going to be a simple stir-fry drenched in some kind of mixture of soy sauce and other Chinese dressings. Boy, was I wrong! The eggplant was soft, but not too mushy, soaking up the sweet chili sauce it was covered in. While stronger in flavor, the sauce did not mask the subtle eggplant taste that I love, and its heat was not overpowering. In addition, the sweetness of the sauce paralleled the initial sweetness of the fresh basil which soon gave-way to its signature earthy and musky, almost menthol, flavor. Pure deliciousness in each bite. I will definitely be ordering this dish again.

One thing to heed however, when coming to GDH--it is a popular place and there is almost always a wait. How long that wait is depends on the day and time, but you can shorten it by making reservations ahead of time. When you get there, you will see that while the size of the dining area is typical of a small-to-medium sized restaurant, they have managed to squeeze as many tables and chairs as possible without compromising fire safety guidelines into the area. Hence, you sometimes feel as though you're eating on top of the stranger at the table next to yours. But don't let that frighten you away--the food is definitely worth the discomfort. Besides, the guy could be cute. ^_~

Service is adequate, nothing special. You ask for something, they'll give it to you without much hassle. In my opinion, there might be one or two servers more than necessary, which might add to the feeling of being trapped like a sardine, but on the other hand, there's always someone around to get you what you want. The owner and his wife who work at the front desk are easy-going and personable. While we were in line, I gave a box of my homemade truffles to one friend who I hadn't seen in a long time, and the owner started joking with us about using the chocolates as a bribe. Btw, hazelnut is his favorite flavor, just in case the line's too long.

Overall, GDH is quite a good find in Chinatown. As a Chinese person who prefers authentic food, I definitely recommend it. Great food, great company, a full belly, and money still left in my wallet? That's a successful night in my book!

Gourmet Dumpling House
52 Beach St.
Boston, MA 02111
(617) 338-6223
Orange Line: Chinatown, Downtown Crossing
Red Line: Downtown Crossing, South Station
Green Line: Boylston Street

-Originally Posted: 3/2/2010-

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